2011.06.19 - 25
This is the 4th of 5 posts for the Mozambique section of our MMZZ trip. It has taken us 12 days to travel (rather slowly) from Giriyondo border post as closely as possible along the western border of Mozambique to the north. We reached Piet and Ria van Zyl's camp near Chitengo (Gorongoza National Park).
Here is the area that we covered during our stay with the Van Zyls. The dotten yellow line is an unchartered off-road.
We welcomed a day of rest at GORONGOZA ADVENTURE CAMP, each one doing what they needed/wanted to do. Gorongoza Adventure Camp was experiencing a water shortage - the water was hauled up from the village's well by a Landrover driven by Jani (14 years old!) - one of the many ways in which we came to realise how amazing the Van Zyl family is.
After 8 years in a reed/cane house, Piet is in the process of building them a "normal" house.
The new brick house.
Ria hosts visiting church and birding groups and (of course) they spent time with us too.
Ria has an admirable knowledge of endemic illnesses - she coached us how to use Coartem OR Artemether plus Lumefantrine to cure malaria. Sakkie (20) now works at Maramue hunting concession and his share in the Community Camp which he runs with his partner, Christiano, bolsters the family income. Pietje (18) is completing Grade 12 in South Africa and Gerbre (16) works as a labourer in Gorongoza National Park when she is not guiding birders up Mount Gorongoza. Specials: Greenheaded Oriole, Seedcracker, Grassland Warbler, Marsh/Anchieta's Chagra, Variable Sunbird, to mention a few. Expert birder, Ettienne Marais, says Gerbre's knowledge of bird calls is amazing!
We spent a peaceful day getting our 'housekeeping' done, strolling around the property
and looking for birds and butterflies.
The next day we were more active. As Gerbre was down with Malaria, Jani and Christiano took us to see the waterfall on the slopes of Mount Gorongoza. We passed through Gorongoza village where we bought Tetracycline (500gm) pills @M40 for 10 over the counter and drew money from an autobank.
We left the village and drove towards Mount Gorongoza in the distance.
We turned onto a dust road which took us through small villages which perched on the side of the mountain.
The dust road at times was nothing more than a footpath which climbed higher and higher.
Just look at this promising pineapple field.
When we reached a boom across the road, we parked and were welcomed by the Gorongoza Park official who read the chief's letter which Jani gave him to authorise our walk.
Then our walk started. As we walked higher we had a beautiful view over the valley - Gorongoza village was minute and Chimoio was a speck in the distance. Can you see the monolith in the background?
We walked still higher with the peak of Mount Gorongoza to our left. The waterfall to which we were heading appeared on the mountainside in the distance.
Little fields flanked the villages/huts which we passed and at times the path was barely visible in the tall grass.
At the stream we had to cross, Jani pointed out the traditional utensils used to de-husk maize kernels - can you see the massive "mortar and pestle" amongst the rocks? Tip: Look on the right side of the rocks.
Here's a close-up of those traditional grinding utensils.
The waterfall was amazing - well worth the walk.
Let's have lunch on the ledge on the other side ... let's see who can balance?
It was a wonderful spot to have lunch. No wonder our hosts liked doung this walk. Christiano (co-owner of community camp and father of 7 boys and a baby girl) and Jani (14).
On our return to the bakkie, the pineapples which we had bought were waiting for us - they were super sweet and juicy!
We drove down the "footpath" again.
Christiano handed out some books and pens on our behalf on the way down - their disbelief gave way to surprise and pleasure when he explained that these gifts were for their schooling. In Mozambique parents have to buy their children's own school books.
A Kiaat tree on the horizon - their seeds are a work of art!
Back in Gorongoza village we shopped for oil, beer (2M), madumbe /manioca, casava, bollo (similar to "vetkoek"), sugar, milk, eggs - whatever you needed was available - the trick was to find it! And with Jani to escort us it was easy.
We also bought 1.5L of honey @M150 from a roadside shop and rushed home to join Piet and Ria for a sundowner at BUA MARIA overlooking the PUNGWE RIVER. Bua Maria is a derelict Portuguese cotton mill. Today nothing remains of this industry at this spot.
However, the many cultivated fields along the Pungwe River, show that Mozambique agriculture is alive and well. Can you see the fields?
This was the perfect way to end a perfect day.
Where's Mrad? Taking the photo, of course!
Only one post remains to complete the set of 5 in order to cover the Mozambique part of our MMZZ trip. Scroll to the top and choose Nr 5.
OR follow this link:
http://mi60mozambique.blogspot.com/2011/08/mozambique-5-chimoio-catandica-swiss.html
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